Try something new by embroidering lace corners on a bag! We love exploring unexpected ways to incorporate embroidery into our designs, and these Lace Corners from Tula Pink are the perfect addition to this stunning backpack! Keep reading to see how our talented teammate, Rachel, brought this design to life.
Finished backpack using 80396 Lace Corners by Tula Pink and PK80015 Full Moon Forest II Quilting

Supplies

Creating the Bag Exterior

Step 1: For the exterior front and back of the bag, I decided to use the stitch-and-flip method to piece together a fun design from fabric, then add a quilting design in the center. I cut two diamonds that were 6 1/2” tall and 9 1/2” wide from a solid fabric, along with many 1 1/4” strips from my collection of Tula Pink fabrics. However, I miscalculated when cutting the diamonds, and the quilting design didn’t fit as intended. I recommend printing a template for the quilting design to ensure it fits the way you want.

Step 2: I then aligned one of the 1 1/4” strips of fabric along one edge of the diamond, right sides together. I stitched them with a 1/4” seam allowance, stopping at the end of the diamond.

Step 3: Flip the fabric strip over and press it in place, then trim off the excess fabric from the strip, following the shape of the center diamond.

Step 4: Repeat the process until the entire bag front is pieced. Use the pattern piece to determine how far each strip needs to extend.

Quilting by Embroidery

After the bag front and back are pieced, it’s time to quilt by embroidery. Because the foam is too thick for most hoops and I don’t want to alter its shape, I decide to float the project. This involves hooping the stabilizer and placing the bag front on top with a sticky stabilizer. I choose to use HydroStick TearAway stabilizer for this project because it has a water-activated, starch-based adhesive that holds firm until it is remoistened. It holds better than StabilStick TearAway but does require more preparation time.

Step 5: Using my Grippy Grid, I hoop a layer of HydroStick TearAway and moisten it with a spray bottle of water. An envelope moistener works well too.

Step 6: Load your design into the machine and use the machine’s features to place and resize it to fit. For this project, I’m using the PK80015-01 Shake Your Honey Maker. Choose a thread color that coordinates with your fabrics.

Step 7: Once the embroidery is complete, remove the project from the hoop. Next, remoisten the HydroStick to release it, and gently tear it away from the quilting design. Finally, trim the exterior pattern piece, as the bag front was pieced larger than needed.

Embroidering Lace Corners

Step 8: To start embroidering lace corners, print the desired Lace Corner design using StabilStick Template Sheets. For this project, I’m using the 80396-01 Tula Pink Lace Bee Corner FSL.

Step 9: Create the bag flap by following the instructions for your chosen bag. Once the flap is created, use the printed template to determine placement for the lace corner.

To make the Lace Corners by Tula Pink, we recommend using one layer of AquaMesh Plus WashAway. AquaMesh Plus is ideal because it has an adhesive layer that helps keep the project in place. For a stiffer lace, use one layer of BadgeMaster in addition to the AquaMesh Plus. Adhere the BadgeMaster to the back of the AquaMesh Plus using 505 Temporary Spray Adhesive.

Step 10: Using your Grippy Grid, hoop the AquaMesh Plus with the paper side up, placing the BadgeMaster on the back. Remove the paper using the OESD Perfect Scoring Tool to reveal the adhesive surface.

Step 11: Load the design into your machine and complete machine step 1: Corner Placement Stitch.

Step 12: Place the flap on top of the AquaMesh Plus. Use the Grippy Grid to help align the center. Focus on the corner points of the placement stitch, as these are most important when positioning the left and right sides.

Step 13: Return the hoop to the machine and stitch machine step 2: Cut Line and Tackdown.

Step 14: Trim away the flap inside the cutline. Start by using your large scissors to make the initial cut, then switch to your regular trimming scissors to cut through half the layers at a time. My flap includes multiple layers of OESD Fuse and Fleece (instead of fusible fleece), along with a layer of OESD Fusible Woven, in addition to the exterior fabric and lining fabric. It’s fine if the inner line of stitches (cut line) gets cut during trimming, as the outer line (tackdown) will hold the flap in place.

To help the presser foot move more easily between the thickness of the flap and the AquaMesh Plus and BadgeMaster, add an additional layer of washaway stabilizer. I recommend using StitcH2O topper, but any washaway stabilizer, such as BadgeMaster, will work.

Step 15: Continue stitching the design according to the thread chart. One of the digitizing features I love on these designs is the wide satin stitch, which covers the cut edge of the flap, along with a wide underlay to keep the flap in place.

Step 16: Trim the stabilizer 1/4″ to 1/2” away from the design and tear away the excess StitcH2O from the top. Wash the stabilizer away with warm water. After it is dry, press the flap right side down on a Perfect Embroidery Press Cloth.

Step 17: Assemble the bag according to the pattern. Note: I added piping to the bottom of my bag to incorporate a fun striped fabric.

This project was such a fun and creative way to try something new with embroidering lace corners! We hope you learned something new and can’t wait to see your own version of the backpack or bag if you decide to make one. Be sure to share your creations with us, and check out the rest of our inspiration on ProjectHub!